Phil is Unspectacular in Aleppo

But Aleppo is spectacular! Sorry, bad joke: my glasses broke, so I've just been stocking up on spare daily lenses. If I appear breathless, it's because the spacebar isn't working too well. I'm feeling much better, and have regained my appetite. Just spent most of my Syrian dollars in a souk. The haggling is good fun, and they are very civilized and make you drink Arabian tea. (but with not quite as much sugar as they drink it!)

Back to the travelogue. Sat20th Early start from Petra with comical driver called Eri, who claimed to have had only 2 hrs sleep after driving from Amman. Fortunately his mother had made him a flask of coffee. Unfortunately, he couldn't open it. We all tried. Eventually unscrewed bottom. Made with mixture of cow milk and camel milk ("Bedouin viagra") Not convinced. Most ofhis jokes were lost in translation. Stopped at Kerak castle, a Crusader place. Lost track oftime and was late back.

Next we travelled to the Dead Sea, the lowest body of water on Earth. Out came the trunks, and we spent a very pleasant hour bobbing around in the supersalinated water. It's cool: you can even float upright. Das and Liam opted to paint themselves in Dead Sea mud. Come back, black & white minstrels, all is forgiven… If you should ever visit, remember not to shave beforehand! It stings at the slightest opportunity, and you really don't want to taste it!

Our next stop was Mount Nebo, where Moses sighted the Promised Land, and where he is said to have died before entering it. It has a Greek Orthodox chapel where some kind ofservice was going on, and a number of mosaics. It's a good viewpoint (but misty today) and the place has a special, peaceful atmosphere: everyone agreed on this. On to Madaba, and the Mariam hotel.

Sun 21st Feeling brighter this morning, praise God. Joined Liam & Dawn to attend the Orthodox Mass at St George's church, and, hopefully, see their mosaics. Hadn't managed breakfast, and forgot that they stand for most of the service. Doh! They seemed happy enough to have us there Liam & Dawn are used to Catholic services, and were crossing themselves, left, right and centre. I'm a little too protestant for that, but managed a respectful bow everytime they took the Crucifix for a walk around the aisles. When it came time for communion, however, I soon realized I wasn't going to get any bread from the guy with the beard until I kissed his cross. That was ok, I figured. Afterwards they ushered us out of the church so they could roll back the carpets. We came back in and saw the famous mosaic which is also the oldest map of the Holy Land, featuring some of the places we'd been, including Mt Sinai and the Dead Sea, which was shown with one fish struggling to swim away from it, and another drifting blithely towards it (!)

The morning's experience decided me against travelling to Amman, decided to save my energy for Damascus. Had pleasant, chilled day. Bought some cushion covers. Later, things went downhill, healthwise. Called a doctor. He examined me and diagnosed colitis. Prescribed 3-day course of drugs and strict diet. Hotel manager and Dan the Man were stellar in driving me around to find late-opening pharmacies. Sleep.

Mon 22nd Off forSyria, via the Roman City of Jerash. An impressive ruin with many corinthian style pillars well preserved. They actually use their hippodrome for chariot races. Sadly, we didn't have time to watch! Shame. Saw some of Romans warming up. Back on the bus (a funky, Scooby Doo affair with a backward-facing seat between the driver and front passenger) and on the road. Traffic fumes increased as we approached Syria. Listened to Little Creatures on my iPod (working fine now!). Had to fill in more forms at the border. Glad to reach the al-Majed Hotel. Bizarre layout. Sharing with Chris, our rooms are in little buildings adjoined to the hotel, the entrances reached via leafy seated areas where people sit and chat. Inside, I think one wall faced the kitchens, and the other the dining room, judging from the noises. But fridge and TV. Didn't smell too hot, though, and resolved to find air-freshener. Went for orientation walk around city. Amazing colours, riotous smells (foul in places). The old souk is covered with a black fabric roof. Light streams in through holes left by WWII French air-raids. Little boys are laughing and selling spinny-copters, many of which are stuck in the rafters. Amazing variety of goods for sale. THey love their sweets in the Middle East, baklava and every variation thereof. Later, the other guys went to a hamam (Turkish bath). I opted out, due to fragility.

Tue 23rd Struggled to keep my pills down last night, so staying in as an experiment. Frozen water bottle helpful. Started to appreciate the inane distractions of Western civilization, watching the BBCWorld Service and 'Elf' on satellite. Venturedout at teatime, light-headed but grateful to be here. Haggled in the souk for damask roses, frankincense and amber. Treated to coffee with cardamon (yuck! Sorry, Tim…). He had other dubious charms forsale, including what appeared tobe baby crocodiles with starfish on their heads (for potency?) I was heading for the Street Called Straight, where St Paul hadbeen. Stopped at a cool cafe (Tche Tche), but feeling effete and appetite-free. Left and followed the sound of music nearby. Ran into the others, walking the other way. They were suprprised at the coincidence, but God knows I need His help(!) We went to what is probably the most beautiful resturant I've ever seen. Set in an old Damascene house, our gallery seats gave a commanding view of the wedding party (…music…) in the hall below. I ate half a plate of delicious rice, yoghurt and meatball-like things. Later, convinced the others to help me find the House of Ananias (Bet Hanania) where Paul stayed. We did. There were some statues in the courtyard. Long walk back!

Wed 24th Lunchtime, travelled to Palmyra (ancient Tadmor-in-the-Desert), city of Palms. Watched sunset from the castle. Pleasant evening shopping at many stalls near hotel.

Thu25th Early start for tour of Palmyra. Our guide is Salim, a pleasant academic type. Very impressive and well-preserved. The Temple of Bel is fascinating. Huge channels for the blood sacrifices. The holy of holies still has intact ceiling carvings: a sun lotus in Bel's shrine, and a zodiac circle in the shrine of the Sun & Moon. The most famous ruler of Palmyra was the warrior-queen, Zenobia, whose husband mysteriously died (Romans say she didit), then she opposed Rome, even launching an attack. She only ruled for6 years, but she changed a lot, then the Romans put her down, and Palmyra's fortunes (Silk Road nerve centre) changed. You can clearly see her name on one of the Greek-inscribed pillars. Later haggled to have some jewellry made by Khaled, the brother of the hotel owner, after we had enjoyed a cup of tea together. This is all good fun. Back on the jalopy for Homs, then a bus to Krak des Chevaliers.

Fri 26th In the country, so a good night's sleep. Up early to see the sun winking above the Krak, the great crusader castle just across the valley. Amazing place. Managed to eat breakfast. Walked across for the tour. Lawrence of Arabia called this the finest castle in the world. Easy to see why. We were early, but any number of teenage boys will soon be here, which makes perfect sense, as it has more crenellations, arrow-slits and secret underground passages than is decent. It has a moat, too. It started as a Kurdish fort, then Prince Tancred of Antioch started building, then the Frankish Crusaders, and, eventually, the Arabs. But it was never taken entirely by force: only by a siege of attrition and waiting for the Crusaders to get hungry and lose hope. It is nigh-impregnable. Then to Aleppo, and we (very quickly!) catch up with the present.
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