Phil's Mideastern Meanderings

Sat 27th

Hi again. This will be brief. I'm back in Blighty and feeling a little better, thanks. Sat 27th A. M. we joined our guide, Ahmed, for a tour of Aleppo. He's an old guy, a former agronomist with a pocket full of lollipops which he uses as prizes in his general knowledge quizzes. We started at the Bab Antakya: the old Antioch gate leading into the Souk. Not too far from Dar Halabia, where we're staying. An old morningstar, weighing several kg, belonging to an ancient warrior, hangs suspended inside the gate.

Into the souk, pausing to peer at squirming catfish and camel butchers (one hump or two?). Things are slow starting today, as Ramadan festivities went on a bit longer here. They have the "white days", where you can fast longer for more brownie points. Ahmed showed us a little old house with actual Hittite pillars. Amazing. And many fine views of the old city. We saw the old khans (foreign merchant areas) housed in the stripy old Ottoman houses. The Citadel dominates Aleppo: a huge fortress, bigger than Krak des Chevaliers. The entrance gates are very old, with carved snakes and lions. Ahmed showed us the King's Bathhouse, and took a trip down memory lane as he recalled his teenage visits to the hamam with his mother and sisters. Bit of a peeping Tom, methinks. The king's throne room is restored to some of its former glory. Fabulous tiles, stained glass & candelabras.

Off to the opticians. Haggled for some daily disposables. Then to Internet Cafe. Blogged for a bit. Then coffee ice cream. Yum.

Met up with Liam & Dawn. Into the souk, clothes shopping. Found a great little shop with silks & antiques. Spent too much money. Enjoyed a nice cup of tea (great salesman).

Previously, we visited the Christian Quarter, and saw the Armenian Church of the Forty Martyrs. (The Armenian genocide http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Armenian_genocide is still political taboo in Turkey, not to mention Kurdistan… http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kurdistan)

In the evening we went to a posh French restaurant, and had some lovely food, for which we paid too much.

Dan & Liam off to an unknown hamam (I'm going to bed…)

Sun 28th

A long time on the bus today, as we travel to Turkey. Strange & dream-like. There's been a PKK bombing in Istanbul. A backpacker told me that there had been a public hanging in Aleppo, but I'm not sure that's true.

Although: http://www.handsoffcain.info/news/index.php?iddocumento=9330293 ??

Arrived in Antakya (old Antioch) and bundled into a taxi to visit St Peter's cave before sunset. Worth it. A special place.

Mon 29th Then on to Selime in Cappadocia. Tried the local trout. Not bad.

Troubled sleep. Dogs barking outside. All very strange.

Tue 30th Our young guide, Ali, took us on a walking tour of the beautiful Ihlara Gorge. Many little churches and twisty old trees. Babbling brook and yellow poplars. Wonderful.

Wed 31st

Goreme, Cappadocia: Incredible landscape. Open Air Museum: old Christian churches, amazing frescoes.

Excellent coffee shop. Have seen many Perbacalari (fairy chimneys). Oh yes.

Thu 1st

Liam & Dawn are in the sky, on a balloon trip. Bit pricey for this one, but the sky is full of balloons at 6am. May explain local UFO museum. Also, weird subsonic vibrations and lights at night. Dreamt that my tummy troubles were due to a Bedouin curse. Hmm. Going a bit stir-crazy. Too much sleep. Where is Kurdistan?

Went with Chris to the Open Air Museum. Doves on the rocks. Talked a bit about cosmology & information theory. Chris now appreciates the depths of my ignorance. He's a good guy, and a good room mate, considering our joint health-record.

Fri 2nd Nov

Today we rode on scooters around the Cappadocian countryside. I rode pillion behind Desperate Dan. (They didn't trust me with one of my own). The wind whipped through my long, flowing locks. Well, it was a bit nippy, anyhow. Bought some shades. Many excellent views of amazing local geology. Urgup. Mustafa pasha. Avanos.

Spent the evening in a local Turkish home, eating their food. Very welcome. Excellent soup.

Sat 3rd Nov

Bus to Ankara. Night train to Istanbul. Ferry across the Bosphorus.

Aya Sofya — Blue Mosque — Topkapi Palace — Grand Bazaar


All fab. Photos to come…